Saturday, June 25, 2011

Vieques

Here:  52 degrees, foggy, rainy

There:  85 degrees, sunny, breezy

And feeling in need of a vacation - a real, go far away, unplug and relax family vacation - the very moment the kids were done with school, we went.

Vieques was exactly the right combination of tropical and convenient (for me) and adventurous and deserted (for Himself). A resort island this is not; the best beaches are tough to get to (I will never, ever complain about Maine potholes again), but one has them to oneself. 

Navio Beach















Sea caves, Navio Beach




 
Playa Punta Arenas
















Near Esperanza




La Escapada

Our rental house was perfect. 



Much time was spent thusly:

In fact, Himself finished the entire Millennium trilogy in six days.  And on the seventh day he rested.


On the Malecon, Esperanza

There really wasn't much opportunity to speak Spanish, unfortunately.  People would take one look at four blond people and start right off in English.  On the few occasions I was able to get a few words in first, people would respond in English and then it was just awkward to go back and forth. 


Municipal cemetery, Isabel Segunda


Flora!



Fauna!
 


There are feral horses all over the island. 

Including in the roads.

 

These are Paso Finos, descended from Spanish stock, and they're beautiful. 


Technically they all belong to someone or other, but they are wild and roam the island. No population control here... and it's spring, so there were lots and lots of babies around. One wonders about the long term health of the heard.

Near Sun Bay

A horseback tour of the island from Esperanza Riding Company was one of the highlights of the trip. 

I'd never ridden a Paso Fino before.  Wow.  No iron-mouthed trail hacks, these; bombproof, yes, but spirited and highly responsive, and the smooth gait was a true pleasure.




Another high point of the trip was a tour of the bioluminescent Mosquito Bay.  It's difficult to describe in words what it's like be immersed in 83-degree water on a moonless night when the slightest motion touches off a phosphorescent glow, and unfortunately luminescing dinoflagellates do not photograph at all well - but it was an amazing experience.  Bravi Viequenses for working so hard to preserve that fragile ecosystem.

On the north side of the island, near the airport, a ceiba tree estimated to be 375 years old.  The thing is bogglingly massive.

  On the southwestern part of the island, remains of the sugar industry, returning to the jungle...


  ...very near the remains of the US military occupation, ditto.  (More on this later; after I get some additional photos developed.)

When we left San Juan yesterday morning, it was 85 degrees and sunny.

When we arrived home last night, it was still 52 degrees and rainy. 

From bathing suits and flip flops to flannel PJs and fleece.

But I missed my pillow. 

If I'd taken along my own pillow I would not have had any motivation to come back.

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